Zhongshan suit, related to the red bandit tailor

Zhongshan suit, related to the red bandit tailor Sun Yat-Sen wears a 7-button buckle tunic.

Figure 1 The advertisement of Wang Shuntai’s suit number published on the front page of the “** Daily” on March 30, 1927, strongly confirms that the Red Band Tailor is also the stereotype and promoter of the tunic.

Pairs of 襟 襟 立 立 立 立 立 立 立 立 立 翻 、 、 襟 襟 襟 襟 襟 襟 襟 襟 襟 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色 特色. This is a contribution made by the Ningbo Red Band Tailor as a pioneer of modern Chinese clothing and a contribution to Xin Hai. In recent days, Ningbo Fashion Museum's “The Revolution of 1911 and China's Clothing Revolution” exhibition shows the contribution of the Ningbo Red Gang tailor in creating, perfecting and popularizing the tunic.

“From the earliest tunic to the finished installation and to Mao’s tunic, every improvement and change in tunic is closely related to Ningbo Hongbang Tailor.” Member of Chinese Museum Society who had participated in the preparation of the Ningbo Garment Museum Chen Wanfeng, vice chairman of the Ningbo Museum Association and Hongbang tailor research expert, said.

The initial system of red tailors cut out the earliest Zhongshan grenades, which not only overturned the Qing rule for hundreds of years, but also overthrew the Chinese centuries-based dress system, which directly led to the apparel system. change. Sun Yat-sen integrated the characteristics of Chinese and Western costumes and created a Chinese tunic suit.

“The first producer of the tunic was Zhang Fangcheng, the third generation of Red Gang successor.” Chen Wanfeng introduced that in 1905, Sun Yat-sen attended the welcome conference held by more than 1,300 international students in Tokyo, at the invitation of Chinese students studying in Tokyo, Japan and overseas Chinese in Japan. During this period, I met regularly with patriots in Yokohama, Osaka and other places. This time, it was the time when Zhang Fangcheng, the grandson of Zhang Shangyi, the founder of Honggang, flourished.

At that time, Sun Yat-sen's comrade Huang Xing and other comrades often went to Zhang Fangcheng's Tongyichang woolen clothes shop and entrusted Zhang Huacheng and other overseas Chinese in the clothing industry with the intention of creating new Chinese clothing. These batches of red gang tailors who have long enjoyed a good reputation in the Japanese clothing industry use the suit modeling and production techniques according to the opinions of Sun Yat-sen and others. They refer to the reform ideas of Japanese student outfits and official uniforms, and integrate them into the Chinese body shape, temperament, and new trends in social life. China's traditional costume culture has trial-produced an early tunic.

"The initial Chinese tunic was a closed eight-character neckline with sleeves. There were nine buttons on the front placket, a straight seam in the center of the back, and a wide strap-type placket at the waist; There is a flap on the bag pocket," said Chen Wanfeng.

Set up a tailoring shop tailored by Shanghai Hongbang Tailoring Co., Ltd. Not only did Zhongshan Fashion originally designed the red tailor's credit, but the tunic's perfection and installation were also closely related to the Red Tailor's tailoring.

After the Revolution of 1911, Mr. Sun Yat-sen took the early Zhongshan suit created in Japan, and came to the famous Red Dragon tailor shop “Rongchangxiang” (established by Fenghua Wang Caiyun) on the beach at that time, asking him to make a straight set. Lapel-up, bag-covered four pockets new clothing. Later, the Chinese tunic suit used the costume as a parent.

Ningbo Hongbang Tailor made the assertion of “the first suit of tunic” and had been questioned. However, in August 2009, Chen Wanfeng found evidence in the two advertisements published on the front pages of the “** Daily” on March 26th and March 30, 1927 in the Shanghai Library Collection.

One of them is the advertisement of “Rongchangxiang”: “The people must wear Zhongshan clothes. The style is accurate and the price is very low. Mr. Sun Yat-sen was praised for his tailor-made clothes before his death. The nickname is the standard for this style. **The army arrived in Shanghai, the nickname is for advocating clothing, and the price is particularly low. Such as Hemingding, we sincerely welcome you.” From March 26th onwards, the advertisement of “Rongchangxiang” was for three days.

The other is an ad published on March 30th by "Wang Shuntai suit": "... What is the style of Mr. Zhongshan's clothing? Actually, what Comrade I should pay attention to is the former Mr. Sinmun Zhongshan's life. Compulsory clothing, deep lotus award. The nickname is the standard for the public to prepare..."

Chen Wanfeng told reporters that Wang Caiyun, the founder of "Rongchangxiang" and Wang Fuqing, the manager of "Wang Shuntai", are all members of the Wang Shupu Village in Jiangkou Street, Fenghua City. The information conveyed in the advertisement shows that both clothing stores had produced clothing for Sun Yat-sen's lifetime, and received Mr. Sun Yat-sen's “commendation” and “appreciation”, and he advocated Sun Yat-Sen’s clothing as the “standard” for the production of tunics for the people. “This It turns out that the Zhongshan suit created by Mr. Sun Yat-sen was the tailoring and promotion of the suits of the two Ningbo Red Gang tailors in Shanghai."

Hot Blush Helps Seamstress Sewn with Mao Mao Tunic

Chen Wanfeng introduced that Mao Zedong loved to wear a tunic. Starting from the "Big Eight" in 1956, Mao Zedong wore the "Zhongshan Mao suit", which was sewn by a red gang tailor.

In the 1950s, the Central Commissioner transferred about 250 red-gang tailors from Shanghai's Red Bang boutiques to Beijing and set up a special office of the Central Office, specifically for Mao Zedong, Liu Shaoqi, Zhou Enlai and other first-generation party and state leaders. Manufacturing equipment. Later, the special accounting office was restructured into a clothing store in Hongdu and continued to order clothing for the central leaders.

“The three generations of Hongdu clothing store’s successive generations of managers came from the red to help tailors. Among them, the second manager, Wang Tingyan (Ji County Jiacun), was among the best performers. During the Eighth National Party Congress in 1956, Wang Tingxuan and Tian Atong’s officials were ordered to Mao Mao designed and produced a new Zhongshan clothing.” Wang Tingyan and others based on the shape, face and temperament characteristics of Mao Mao, will change the pockets of the top two pockets to be curved and pointed so that the clothes will show more vitality and movement. The shoulder pads are slightly upturned, and the shoulders are flatter and flat; the collar is large and the lapels are large, completely changing the style of the throat. *** The costumes on the portraits of Mao ** hung on the tower are the "Mao-style clothes."

Mao Zedong liked to wear this improved tunic well before his death. Later, with the popularity of tunic suits, more and more people were wearing Chinese tunic suits. By the 1950s and 1960s, they had built up Zhongshan's clothing on China. (Reporter Cheng Liangtian / Wen Wangyong / remake)

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