Keywords: blended fabric; cotton; PTT fiber; weaving process; finishing; development 1. product design 1.1 design ideas PTT fiber is short for propylene terephthalate , belongs to the polyester fiber category. Since the fiber can remember the initial shape and properties imparted by the outside after being formed once, the shaped fiber can be arbitrarily deformed and can return to the original shape at a lower temperature . Because the formed product can remember the original characteristics of the fiber, the fabric formed by the PTT fiber is called a â€œmemory fabricâ€. This kind of fabric has a comfortable feel, soft luster, fine soft texture, good drape, anti-pollution, chemical resistance, dimensional stability, anti-static, anti-ultraviolet and other properties _3J. The main products are pure-spinning m-fiber fabrics, and PET, viscose, or wool-fiber blended fabrics. However, there are relatively few studies on the memory fabrics formed by the blending of PTT fibers with cotton fibers. Based on this, the paper introduces PTT fibers and cotton fibers. The focus of the production process of the blended memory fabrics and the points of attention for post-processing, put forward the research direction of PTT fiber fabrics.
1.2 Product specifications warp and weft yarns are 40/60PTT/C blended yarns. The finished product specification is 4.86/8.33 157/157 146. Organized plain weave. The warp yarns are arranged in 21alb21a3c2a3c and the weft yarn is 12albl2a2c2a2c, where a denotes special white, b denotes light red, and c denotes dark red.
2. Key technologies for weaving 2.1 Process flow warp: bobbin yarn dyeing â†’ warping â†’ sizing â†’ threading and weft weft yarn: bobbin yarn dyeing warp yarn + weft yarn: weaving â†’ finishing 2.2 Key technologies Due to the variety of yarns, the organization structure It is relatively simple to wear and wear, so only the main technologies in the production process are described.
(1) cheese yarn dyeing. The bobbin yarns provided are PTT/c blended yarns. Therefore, during the cheese yarn dyeing process, attention should be paid to the ability of different fibers to absorb different dyes. First, the disperse dye was added into the dye bath, and the color depth was the highest when the temperature was raised to 110Â°C. When the dyeing temperature was increased to 130Â°C, the effect was poor, and the yarn had a rough feel. At the same time, it was also found that at 90Â°C, the dyeing rate of m-fibers was significantly accelerated, mainly because PTT fibers had the characteristics of low melting point and low glass transition temperature. The bath temperature was then controlled to 80Â°C and the cotton fibers were dyed with reactive dyes.
(2) Sizing. In actual production, it was found that the phenomenon of breakage of the PTT/c blended yarn was obvious. The fundamental reason was that the strength of the PTT fiber and the cohesion between the fibers were slightly lower than those of other synthetic fibers. In order to solve this problem, the sizing rate of the sizing was increased from 8% to 11% to increase the sizing penetration and covering ability and increase the sizing strength.
(3) Wear comprehensive and uniform. Since the product is a plain weave, we have adopted a straight through method for the body and the cloth, and the number of weaves is 2 in.
(4) Machine parameters. The fabric is woven using an air jet loom. To keep the opening clear and normal weaving as the premise, try to reduce the set value of the tension on the machine and reduce the occurrence of broken ends. When weaving plain weave fabrics, the height of the back beam is generally the same as that of the thoracic beam, and the tension of the warp yarns in the upper and lower layers is kept the same. However, the author found that slight scars occur on the fabric surface. Therefore, the height of the rear beam is properly raised, the tension of the upper warp yarn is reduced, the upper layer yarn can be free to slip, and then a full and rich cloth surface is formed, and the appearance quality of the woven memory fabric is improved.
3. After finishing PTT fiber is a kind of synthetic fiber with special performance, so its blended fabric with cotton fiber is also different from ordinary fabric finishing technology.
3.1 Pre-shrinkage Under normal circumstances, the packaging of the fabric into a package to be carried out under a certain tension conditions, so before processing the fabric should be given sufficient pre-shrinkage, open the package for a period of time to eliminate the internal stress of the fabric. For PTT fibers and cotton blended fabrics with micro-elastic properties, it is particularly important to fully shrink them.
PTT fiber and cotton fiber blended woven fabrics should be processed under tension without tension or under low tension during scouring. Therefore, preshrinkage treatment should be performed before scouring.
3.2 The scouring process of scouring PTT fiber and cotton fiber blended fabric is as follows: alkali is added by adding caustic soda, scouring temperature is 80Â° C., scouring time is 15 min, and degreasing agent is added to remove wax and oil formed in the spinning solution of PTT fiber. And other oligomers, then neutralized with acetic acid. Thoroughly wash after scouring to prevent wax and grease from smearing. It should also be noted that the fabric scouring should be carried out under flat tension-free or low-tension equipment.
3.3 The heat setting of heat setting fabrics is mainly to eliminate the internal stress and strain of the fabric. After heat setting, the fibers in the fabric can be in a natural arrangement, reducing the fabric deformation. The test found the best heat setting conditions: temperature 130 Â°C, time 60 s. Shaped fabrics are dimensionally stable and soft to the touch. In actual production, it has also been found that if the temperature is too low, the tensile properties and the resilience effect of the fabric will all deteriorate; if the temperature is too high, the fabric will shrink too much, the color fastness will deteriorate, affect the color of the fabric, and the fabric will feel rough. Hard, loses flexibility.
4, the main properties of the fabric 4.1 anti-wrinkle fabric in the wear and wash, plastic deformation will occur, the formation of wrinkles, and wrinkles of the fabric after the easy to wrinkle, thus reducing the practicality and aesthetics of clothing. The memory fabric made of PTT fiber mixed with cotton fiber has good wrinkle resistance. After the fabric is kneaded, a wrinkle phenomenon is generated, and ironing is not required, and the flattening effect can be achieved simply by smoothing the fabric with the palm of the hand. Therefore, it has the features of easy-care and easy-care.
4.2 Drapability of drape fabrics is related to the softness of the fabric. In general, the better the softness, the higher the drape performance. PTT fibers are low-modulus fibers, and the memory fabrics blended with cotton fibers are comfortable to handle and have a drape. They are suitable for decorative tablecloths, stage curtains, dress skirts, high-grade cheongsams, and high-grade windbreakers.
4.3 Stretched elastic fabrics are subjected to numerous repetitive stretching effects during use. The memory fabric made of PTT and cotton fiber has soft hand feel, similar to the effect of spandex fiber, and has micro-elastic energy. At the time of dressing, the elbows and knees will bend the garment fabric. The memory fabric with micro-elastic properties can satisfy the comfort of stretch stretching at these locations. At the same time, the fabric of this characteristic is also suitable for knitted underwear and sportswear.
5, PTT fiber fabrics research direction 5.1 post-finishing process improvement PTT / C blended fabric finishing process directly affects the flexibility of the finished product and many other aspects of performance. PTT fiber woven into pure or blended fabrics has a certain degree of elasticity. Unsatisfactory finishing processes can cause the fabrics formed by them to lose elasticity and feel rough, and reduce or even lose the "memory" function. Obviously, PTT fiber fabric finishing technology still needs to be studied.
5.2 Fabric Development of PTT Fibers PTT fiber is a kind of polyester fiber, but its strength is not high, so it brings difficulties to the weaving process, and the PTT fiber has low hygroscopicity. Therefore, the author believes that the development of PTT fiber pure spinning fabrics will be reduced, and the development of multifunctional, PTT fiber and other fiber blended fabrics meeting the requirements of different occasions will be strengthened.
5.3 PTT fiber spinning characteristics PTT fiber woven fabric has a memory function, reflected in the fiber elastic recovery ability is better, after rubbing and other external forces, it can still return to the original state. The elastic properties of PTT fiber should be analyzed from its molecular structure, compared with the molecular structure of PTT fiber. The PET fiber has one more methylene group, which makes the molecular structure assume a helical structure. It may be that such a structure is the reason that can restore the original shape after removing the external force.
(Yu Chau Vocational College of Engineering; Zhangjiagang Entry-Exit Inspection and Quarantine Bureau Shen Yan)
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